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Arge Bam, Kerman
Today is the 13th day of the New Year; it is sizdah be dar. On this day tradition begs that everybody spends the day outdoors (sizdah = 13, be dar = out of the door). On our way to Mr N’s orchard we see people in literally everything on wheels, getting out of town. Cars stuffed with people, entire families in pickup trucks, and a family of four on a moped. I even see a bunch of children peeping out of what most resembles a garbage truck. Everybody who can leave town is looking for a spot to spend the day outdoors. Those who stay in town go to the parks. We can use Mr N’s orchard, where he grows the fruit for his illegal distillery. Because the garden is surrounded by high walls no one can see us and we have a private spot. Nobody in our party cares for the Islamic dress code. We play volley ball and drink tea. It is a cool and cloudy day. We have salad olivi-eh (potato salad) and cold chicken for lunch. Songs are being sung and one of the nieces plays the guitar. At the end of the afternoon it gets chilly and the men prepare a large fire from dead branches from the orchard. A soft rain announces the end of the day. We say our good-byes and drive back to Kerman. Back home we hear that there has been pouring rain all day in Tehran and that everybody has been forced to stay indoors.
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