My last day in Iran. I can barely close my suitcases. I hope we’re not going to get more presents. All of a sudden I am thrilled to be going home tomorrow. Of course I have had a wonderful time here and Keyvan’s family is great, so sweet, warm, honest and generous. But it has also been very overwhelming, the constant attention and never being on your own. I am really looking forward to having some time for myself.

Today marks the one-year anniversary of the death of one of Keyvan’s uncles. This is an important occasion to pay a visit to the family he left behind. The bouquet of white flowers we bring for Auntie is put next to Uncle’s portrait, which is surrounded by food, cookies and flowers. The mobet (Zoroastrian priest) is present, and so is the neighbor with her daughter. The two of them, as the only Muslims present, wear their long coats and scarves inside the house. We enjoy a big lunch together.

In the afternoon we visit Keyvan’s sister Mitra and her husband Jamshid and son Sam. When evening falls we take a ride to the Park-e-laleh (Tulip Park) in Jamshid’s almost antique Volvo. Sam is embarrassed by his father’s car from 1967, but we smile and call it a classic. I walk with Mitra past he stalls with handicrafts in the park. I am exhausted and I know that this is going to be a long evening, with little sleep. My flight is tomorrow morning at 6:30 AM. In the car on our way back home Roshanak asks if I am happy to go home tomorrow. I know she won’t feel offended when I say ‘yes’, because a return to Holland is also a return to my family, and the importance of family is well understood here. So I say ‘yes, very happy’ and she says she understands that very well. We say goodbye to Mitra, Jamshid and Sam and drop off Roshanak at their Tehran apartment. ‘If you need anything’, she says, ‘You call and tell me. We are sisters.’ Fighting her tears she gets out of the car.

In Mamy’s place Shahin and her sons Essy and Behnam appear at the moment I try to close my suitcases. They bring us more gifts. A wonderful perfume, which still fits in the suitcase and something else Keyvan will have to take along next week. Keyvan and Essy have to sit on top of my suitcase in order to close the lid.